PENGARUH ANGIN TERHADAP KARAKTERISTIK GELOMBANG LAUT DI PULAU SAUGI KABUPATEN PANGKAJENE DAN KEPULAUAN
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Abstract
Wind is air that moves from high pressure to low pressure or from low air temperature to high air temperature. Wind is one of the meteorological elements that is very important to note in marine matters. The wind determines the process and intensity of ocean waves and currents. Waves propagate from the deep sea (deep water). The beach changes shape due to the change in sea depth. As the waves approach the shore, the movement of the waves down to the ocean floor slows down. It is the result of friction between the water and the seabed. At the same time, the crest of the wave continues on the surface of the water to continue advancing. The closer to the coast, the higher the wave crests are sharper and the troughs are smoother. This phenomenon causes the waves to break.
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